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| ShipStore.com Beacon #19 :: Winterize Your Boat 101 (Engine, etc.) |
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From: editor@shipstore.com
Subject: ShipStore.com Beacon #19: Winterize Your Boat 101 (Engine, etc.)
Date: October 7, 2004 4:17:53 PM PDT
ShipStore.com Beacon: Winterize Your Boat 101 (Engine, etc.)
Issue 19, October 7, 2004
http://www.ShipStore.com
Floating your boat since 1982 TM
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READ ONLINE: If you experience any trouble opening the links in your newsletter or if you would prefer to read online, you may access the Beacon at: http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/NEWS/NEWSbeacon019.html . If you wish to SUBSCRIBE, please send a BLANK e-mail to beacon-on@list.shipstore.com . If you wish to UNSUBSCRIBE, please send a BLANK e-mail to beacon-off@list.shipstore.com
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In this issue:
~ WELCOME ABOARD: Greetings from Captain Jim
~ CAPTAIN'S TIP: Winterize Your Boat 101 (Engine & Related Systems)
~ CAPTAIN'S SPECIALS: Winterization Specials
~ CAPTAIN'S CONTEST: "Win a Shopping Spree" Drawing
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~ WELCOME ABOARD: Greetings from Captain Jim
I'm headed off for a quick weekend in Connecticut with my family, driving south through some great foliage, but a chill is in the air. Truth be told, I surrendered my Tevas this week and switched over to socks and shoes.
You may already have gotten wind of the fact that Sevylor costs are going up 7-12% industry-wide due to the global petroleum situation, but we at ShipStore.com are doing our best to hold the cost until you have had a chance to order. And we will be launching a NEW website with thousands of deeply discounted inflatables. That's right, an online outlet offering the very best deals on hundreds of popular Sevylor products.
Our current issue is the first in a two-part series tackling the complex yet vital issues related to winterizing your boat. This issue features a timely guideline for how to winterize your boat's engine and related systems. Our head mechanic (my brother), Larry, and my father, Bob (the author of Lightening 101, http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/NEWS/NEWSbeacon016.html ), have distilled this advice from their collective wisdom gathered over several decades running the Westport Marina (visit us online at http://www.westportmarina.com/ ). The next Beacon will explore ways to effectively winterize your hull, bilge, head, water tank, waste tank and air conditioning. In addition we've come up with a bunch of winterization products that you need, and I've cut the prices as low as I can go in order to thank you for your loyalty. At these prices, how can you lose? But order fast because these special newsletter subscriber prices will only last until our stock is depleted and/or the next issue of the Beacon comes out in two weeks... whichever comes first!
In closing, thanks to all of you who joined us for the "Tastes Like Chicken" party at the Galley Restaurant. Seemed that everyone had a great time eating bizarre dishes like alligator, faux rattlesnake, frog's legs, "pork-upine" and quail and singing karaoke. We're still working on the theme for next year, but we'll let you know once we've made up our minds. For those of you who weren't able to attend, you're welcome to join us next year in you happen to be in the neighborhood in September 2005. For several years now we've chosen a theme and enjoyed a "finish the opened bottles in the bar" potluck for our friends. Mark your calendar!
Captain Jim
captjim@shipstore.com
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~ CAPTAIN'S TIP: Winterize Your Boat 101 (Engine & Related Systems)
INTRODUCTION
The leaves are turning color and the air is dry and crisp. To be sure, autumn 2004 is upon us in all its vibrant glory. So as the boating season winds down, instead of feeling glum and counting the days until Summer 2005, we decided to compile some winterization pointers to help you prolong the life of your boat and to ensure a quick and painless launch early next spring.
Of course, the best pointer of all just may be to call up the dealer who sold you the boat or your local full-service marina and give them the word. We urge you to have a professional winterize the engine. You don't save money when you crack a manifold. It can happen to the best of us, but at least your boatyard is insured. You are safer winterizing the other boat systems and leaving the tricky engine work to the pros. But if you are a "do-it-yourself boater", we will offer some general guidelines and products to use. But please note, you should always follow the engine manufacturer's methods first and foremost.
We encourage you to develop a systematic checklist that you can use year after year to make sure you don't miss anything. Usually the owner's manual of your boat and engine will include winterization recommendations from the manufacturer. If you don't have the manual but the boat and engine are still in production, try their website.
Okay, time to get started. First of all, since we are North Country folk, we are assuming that you dry store your boat in the winter. Long cold winters and plenty of ice don't leave us many options on Lake Champlain! So if you live in gentler climes, some of this advice may be irrelevant. Likewise, we've neglected to mention some of the guidelines that you need to consider. So pick and choose. And who knows, maybe next year we'll add a supplement for those of you with shorter umbilical cords to the equator.
Top of the How to Winterize Your Boat 101 checklist is the engine.
OUTBOARD ENGINE
Outboards are much easier than inboards, but that doesn't mean you can afford to take any short cuts when winterizing. Although the primary goal in winterizing your outboard is to eliminate moisture and acids in order to prevent corrosion and freezing, the secondary and equally important goal is to minimize your prep and launch time several months from now when you are dying to get back out on the water and every minute of prep work feels like an eternity. With this in mind, let's start winterizing with the goal of a speedy launch next spring.
Start with a damp soapy sponge or rag, or use a spray degreaser. Clean the cover, shaft and the area inside the housing where oil and gas tend to collect. Be on the lookout for corrosion and make sure you clean it off. Find the manufacturer's lubrication diagram in the manual or online, and then lubricate all moving parts such as gears, throttle shaft bearings, choke and carburetor linkage, cam follower, starter spindle, etc.
Degreaser:
Grez-Off, 25 ounce
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SPN/SPN30225.html
Lubricant:
Super Lube in 3 ounce squeeze tube
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SLU/SLU21037.html
Or in 3 ounce cartridge which can be used in standard 3 ounce grease gun
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SLU/SLU21036.html
We recommend filling gas tanks for the winter; you minimize moisture condensing and corrosion and have less risk of explosion. National fire codes for marinas specify 80% full tanks for inboard and outboard.
Add fuel stabilizer and fill the tanks, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to get the stabilizer all through the system. You also need to flush the cooling system especially if operated in salt water. Run in a tank, or attach a motor flusher to a water hose. Never run the motor dry; you can damage it in a few minutes.
Fuel stabilizer, 4 ounce size, treats 20 gallons. Other sizes are linked on the page.
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR549.html
You then can fog the motor with Marine Engine Stor. If it is a Johnson/Evinrude with Schrader valve, you can use a spray can with a hose and connector.
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CRC/CRC06072.html
Other engines that are NOT fuel injected (EFI) you can spray Engine Stor into the air intake.
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CRC/CRC06068.html
EFI engines without a valve need to be professionally winterized, or you may void the warranty and damage them.
Some internet mechanics recommend running the engine dry of gas. We do NOT. If it is a modern oil injected (VRO) motor you may harm it. Stall it out with the fogging oil or turn it off when fogged. The only time we would disconnect the fuel and run dry is on small HP models that are not oil injected and are going to be transported on their side where gas could run out.
Remove spark plugs, spray fogging oil in cylinder, rotate the engine flywheel clockwise to spread the oil. Replace plugs and tighten. Store upright if possible.
Once you have the engine finished, proceed to the lower unit. Place a gear oil catch basin beneath the lower unit and loosen the drain plug. Pay attention to what drains out. Milky oil, water, or metal shavings are bad! Presence of any of these three means you that you need to visit your dealer or marina. Take a sample of the bad oil to your mechanic. Change the gear oil in the lower unit and retighten the drain plug.
Lower unit oil, quart
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SIE/SIE96502.html
Pump for above bottle
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SIE/SIE9781.html
If you have an older Johnson/Evinrude OMC electric shift model you MUST use a different oil:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SIE/SIE96202.html
And just like that, you're done! Piece of cake. And you will rest easy all winter knowing that your engine is safe and will be ready for an early start in the Spring.
INBOARD ENGINE (GAS)
Winterizing your engine(s) is essential to prevent residual acids and moisture from corroding the internal components of your engine(s) and to minimize the likelihood of damage caused by freezing. But, the secondary and equally important objective is to minimize your prep and launch time several months from now when you are dying to get back out on the water. So effort invested now will pay dividends come spring, guaranteed.
Begin by adding gas stabilizer to your fuel and filling the tanks to about 80% if weather is cool. You don't want it to expand and overflow. Leaving tank empty encourages condensation and explosive fumes.
Gas stabilizer 8 ounce, treats 40 gallons
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR550.html
Then run engine for at least 15 - 20 minutes at a fast idle to incorporate stabilizer and to warm the oil for easier removal. Shut down the engine; change the oil and replace oil filters. When you are finished, restart the engine(s) to ensure that new, clean oil coats interior surfaces and that you tightened the new oil filter(s) enough to prevent leaking. Next, it is advisable to replace the fuel filter(s) and to check for tightness/leaking while the engine is running. Also clean grease from the engine. Clean the carburetor flame arrestor.
Degreaser in a spray bottle
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SPN/SPN30225.html
If in salt water, you should flush with fresh water. Almost all boat engines are cooled by circulating water through the engine(s), but you need to confirm whether your engine(s) use a raw-water or an enclosed freshwater cooling system. The former simply pumps water from a through-hull intake into and through the manifold, engine and head assembly. The latter involves two independent systems, one that imports water from a through-hull intake and to cool a closed-loop system which, in turn, circulates through the manifold, engine and head assembly. In both, the procedure is the same for winterizing the raw water system.
To flush an inboard, you need to disconnect the water intake hose and extend or place in a bucket of water with a hose running in it. You then use this system to add antifreeze.
A do-it-yourself kit that allows you to flush and add antifreeze to an inboard/outboard can be ordered to facilitate the process.
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CAC/CAC65501.html
In our yard, we always drain the engine, then flush with antifreeze. In draining the system, you must ensure that every single petcock has been opened and ALL water drained. Probe with a wire to remove scale and rust that may have collect in the system and clog petcocks, strainers, etc.
Some mechanics say you can just flush with antifreeze. It may not flush water out of all nooks and crannies and if cold may shut the thermostat, blocking complete replacement of water.
You then let antifreeze run thru the engine until it comes out the exhaust. We use five gallons per engine of NON TOXIC antifreeze. In cold climates we have heard of freezing by using a cheap, super-market antifreeze. We always use a top of the line. It costs us $12 more per engine, but we sleep soundly during the winter. We use Pahnol -60 Nontoxic Engine and Water Antifreeze, which has more cold and corrosion protection than the cheaper varieties. Use the cheaper stuff for toilet and water systems.
Pahnol Nontoxic Engine and Water Antifreeze, Gallon
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/HOU/HOUPN1.html
If you have a carburetor fuel system then you can fog the engine while it is running at about 1500 - 2000 RPM. We fog just before the antifreeze bucket is empty.
Engine Stor
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CRC/CRC06068.html
Try not to let the engine stall while fogging. When clouds of grey exhaust appear, turn the engine off. If it stalls, do not restart. You may create a hydraulic lock and damage the engine. Do not run the engine dry of gas unless your owner's manual suggests it.
Remove spark plugs, squirt some of the fog into the cylinder, return plugs and tighten. If you have a fuel injected system, (EFI) follow manufacturer's recommendation. Some modern engines are quite complex.
If your engine also uses an enclosed freshwater cooling system, you simply need to check the water/antifreeze mixture in the closed-loop part of the system. If it is dirty, you should drain and replace the fluid. Check your manufacturer's recommendations to verify the correct water to antifreeze ratio for your region, and type of antifreeze. It is important that you follow the manufacturer's directions explicitly. Erring on the side of two much antifreeze can be as harmful to your engine as too little.
Some mechanics recommend removing the water impeller so it does not harden out of shape. We believe removal puts more wear on the impeller. We replace impellers every three years. Some insurance companies require yearly replacement if you have overheat coverage.
INBOARD ENGINE (DIESEL)
Winterizing your engine(s) is essential to prevent corrosion of the internal components of your engine(s) and to minimize the likelihood of damage caused by freezing. But, the secondary and equally important objective is to minimize your prep and launch time several months from now when you are dying to get back out on the water. So effort invested now will pay dividends come spring, guaranteed.
We recommend using a diesel fuel stabilizer and filling fuel tanks to about 80% capacity. Use 1 ounce per 10 gallons. Larger bottles are available from links on that page.
We use Star Brite EZ Store Diesel, 8 ounce bottle
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/STA/STA84408.html
You then need to change the oil. Oil's viscosity is increased in the autumn due to the cool weather, so you will need to start and run your engine(s) for perhaps 30 minutes to warm the oil and incorporate the stabilizer through the system before changing it. Shut down the engine(s), change the oil, and replace your oil filter(s). When you are finished, restart the engine(s) to ensure that new, clean oil coats interior surfaces and that you tightened the new oil filter(s) enough to prevent leaking.
You may want to change the fuel filters, but do not attempt this unless you know how to bleed the system.
In our yard, we always drain the engine, then flush with antifreeze. In draining the system, you must ensure that every single petcock has been opened and ALL water drained. Probe with a wire to remove scale and rust that may have collect in the system and clog petcocks, strainers, etc.
Although some say you can leave a diesel dry, we do not. Air is more corrosive than coating the engine with quality antifreeze. See comments under Inboard engines for antifreeze methods and supplies.
Regarding fogging a diesel engine, you are advised to follow the specific recommendations of the manufacturer. We never fog diesels in our yard; adding fogging oil while hand cranking is dangerous because the engine may start.
Some mechanics recommend removing the water impeller so it does not harden out of shape. We believe removal puts more wear on the impeller. We replace impellers every three years. Some insurance companies require yearly replacement if you have overheat coverage.
STERN DRIVE
Before we wrap up, we'll touch quickly on stern drives. Famous for early summer leaks, a little extra time now will save you a headache (and maybe your marriage!) next summer. A thorough inspection of your stern drive begins with a cleaning. Clean off the algae, the weeds, the zebra muscles (who obviously failed to learn that they are only supposed to be interested in water intakes) and the barnacles. A nice warm sudsy water scrub down will enable you to better evaluate if there is anything that needs attention. Check the rubber boot for cracks. If you find any, make an appointment with your local full-service marina now so that they can schedule you for a replacement before you launch. Place a oil catch basin beneath the stern drive and loosen the drain plug. Pay attention to what drains out. Milky oil, water, or metal shavings are bad! Presence of any of these three indicates that you need to a visit your dealer or mechanic to test and check. Change the gear oil in the lower unit and retighten the drain plug. Check the hydraulic steering fluid and the grease the fittings. Check the user's manual for additional recommendations from the manufacturer.
Note that while draining a lower unit is easy, the proper steps must be taken to refill it properly. Follow the manufacturer's instruction for your particular unit. Some OMC drives fill from the middle hole. On some newer Mercruiser drives you must remove the propeller.
WRAP-UP
So, that's it. How to winterize your boat's engine and related systems. Not the most exciting way to mourn the end of summer, but unless your nautical asset is winterized properly, corrosion and freezing could make for a very unhappy summer 2005. Winterizing your boat engine is top priority. We hope these pointers are helpful, and we'll crank out another installment in our next Ship's Log to guide you through winterizing the hull, bilge, head, holding tanks (water and waste) and air conditioning as well as a look at mildew prevention and covering. Please keep in mind that these are not intended to be exhaustive manuals for winterizing your boat. Just a little helping hand to make things easier for you. Until next time, good luck.
George Davis, Beacon Editor
editor@shipstore.com
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~ CAPTAIN'S SPECIALS: Winterization Specials
MOTOR BOAT STORAGE STANDS
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/BBS/BBSMOTOR.html
RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES FOR EASY WINTERIZATION
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CAC/CACACCESSORIES.html
ENGINE AND WATER SYSTEM ANTIFREEZE OPTIONS
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/CAC/CACANTIFREEZE.html
STOR-N-START GAS, 15 GALLON
Price: $ 469.00
View item:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR540.html
FOGGING OIL 13 OZ SPRAY
Price: $ 4.34
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR545.html
STOR-N-START FOR GAS, 4 OZ
Price: $ 3.65
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR549.html
STOR-N-START FOR GAS, 8 OZ
Price: $ 5.35
View items:
http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR550.html
STOR-N-START FOR GAS, PINT
Price: $ 8.50
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR551.html
STOR-N-START FOR GAS, QUART
Price: $ 12.69
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR552.html
STOR-N-START GAS, GALLON
Price: $ 37.65
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR553.html
STOR-N-START FOR DIESEL, QUART
Price: $ 13.79
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR554.html
DIESEL STOR-N-START, PINT
Price: $ 7.89
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR561.html
DIESEL STOR-N-START, 8OZ
Price: $ 5.89
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR565.html
CRANKCASE STOR-N-START
Price: $ 5.99
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/MDR/MDR600.html
ICE EATER DE-ICING EQUIPMENT
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POHICEEATER.html
SPARE PROPELLER FOR ICE EATER
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POH80000.html
ZINC FOR 1/2,3/4HP ICE EATER (X 0)
Price: $ 12.35
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POH90000.html
THERMOSTAT, FIXED SET POINT
Price: $ 55.98
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POHFT2535.html
ICE EATER DE ICER, 1/2 HP 115V
Price: $ 449.00
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POHP500.html
ICE EATER DE ICER 3/4 HP 115V
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POHP750.html
THERMOSTAT FIXED
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/POH/POHTHERM1.html
DE ICER 1/2 HP 120V (DEICER)
Price: $ 429.00
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/PTI/PTI6205.html
D-ICER WATER CIRCULATOR 3/4 HP
Price: $ 495.00
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/PTI/PTI6208.html
DE ICER 1 HP 115V (DEICER)
Price: $ 599.00
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/PTI/PTI6210.html
THERMOSTAT FOR SALT WATER
Price: $ 79.00
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/PTI/PTI6216.html
AQUA FRESH (SAF 8 )
Price: $ 7.49
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/RUL/RUL830.html
STERN DRIVE COVER MERCRUISER, BRAVO
Price: $ 12.99
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SEA/SEA31BRAVO.html
STERN DRIVE COVER MERCRUISER, ALPHA
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SEA/SEA31MC1.html
STERN DRIVE COVER OMC
Price: $ 12.99
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SEA/SEA31OMC1.html
OIL 25W40 MERCRUISER STERNDRIVES QUART
Price: $ 3.95
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/SIE/SIE94002-1.html
FUEL STABILIZERS AND WATER ABSORBERS FROM STARBRITE
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/STA/STAADDITIVES.html
E Z TO STORE GAS 8OZ.
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E Z TO STORE GAS 32OZ.
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/STA/STA84332.html
E Z TO STORE DIESEL 8OZ.
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E Z TO STORE DIESEL 16OZ.
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E Z TO STORE DIESEL 32OZ.
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/STA/STA84432.html
ENGINE PROTECTOR FOGGER 12OZ
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/STA/STA85312.html
MOTOR FLUSHERS FOR OUTBOARDS AND I/O ENGINES
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/TEM/TEMFLUSHERS.html
C-20 KASCO CONTROL UNIT FOR TIME AND TEMPERATURE
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/KSCO/KSCOC20.html
KASCO WATER DE-ICER, 1/2 HORSEPOWER
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KASCO WATER DE-ICER, 3/4 HORSEPOWER
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POWER CABLE, 25 FEET, FOR DE-ICERS
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TWIST LOCK PLUG FOR DE-ICER
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POWER CABLE, 50 FEET, FOR DE-ICER
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FLOTATION UNIT FOR DE-ICER
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REPLACEMENT PROP (K) FOR F2400 DE-ICER
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REPLACEMENT PROP (J) FOR F3400 DE-ICER
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KASCO UNIVERSAL DOCK MOUNT FOR DE-ICER
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FLUSHER FAKE-A-LAKE INBOARD
Price: $ 43.38
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http://www.shipstore.com/ss/HTML/ALL/ALLFAK01.html
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